3d printing with metal on your own desktop 3d printer! This amazing one of a kind filament will allow you to print with actual bronze at home!
|SPECIAL BRONZEFILL 1.75 / 750||88|
|SPECIAL BRONZEFILL 1.75 / 1500||4|
|SPECIAL BRONZEFILL 2.85 / 750||106|
|SPECIAL BRONZEFILL 2.85 / 1500||26|
Availability: In stock
3d printing with metal on your own desktop 3d printer! This amazing one of a kind filament will allow you to print with actual bronze at home! Straight from the printer parts look almost laser sintered with a matte finish.
With a bit of sanding and polishing the bronze particles will start to shine and shimmer unlike any 3d printing filament you have seen before. The weight of the material is something special, about 3 times heavier then our regular PLA/PHA.
Now you can make jewelry that won’t feel like cheap lightweight plastic parts.
- Heat Creep and Breakage... Looks good when it prints though
I haven't been able to get off more than a bridge test, plugging 2 nozzles in the process (one brand new). The stuff also likes to break off at the inlet of the extruder where there is a slight bend due to a side-mounted roll, so I've lost quite a few more prints there.
The few prints that I have gotten have looked good, so I'm looking forward to tearing down my extruder...again, to get this nasty plug out, and finally getting my settings right. I wish 'heat creep' would have been mentioned/warned against in the 'Tips & Tricks' section. (Posted on 4/5/2017)
- set your density to 3.90
This plastic Brassfill has a high density of 3.9, so remember to change the setting on your slicer, head 215C bed off flow rate 1.2, anything less in flow rate and I was getting voids. This smells like caramel cookies baking, a pleasant smell.
I have had a few dark oozes, that were like hard little caramelized bubbles that the print head bounced off of , I used a tool to knock them off. I printed a miniature of the Celtic Skull and polished it up, turned out really nice (Posted on 2/7/2017)
- Result is stunning
The Colorfabb bronze fill print almost the same as regular Colorfabb PLA and gives a great result when properly polished. It's pretty expensive, but the result is well worth it. I make this and Copper/Brass Keychains a lot with a dual- extruder. The result is truly beautiful. It needed some adjustments. Thus extrution flow needs up to around 1.06 to get a good close result. Super stuff for overhangs and bridges. I cool the Colorfabb immediately with a good cooler and that gives the characteristics that the filament is a very good result. (Posted on 3/29/2016)
All colorFabb 3d printing filaments are produced in our own production facility, situated in the Netherlands. Since no external parties are involved in the making of colorFabb filament we can ensure consistent quality on every order.
Excellent diameter tolerance
An important machine in our production are the laser measurement systems used to check the diameter of our filament real time during production. It’s measured over 1000 times per second and helps us guarantee that each spool of colorFabb 3d printing filament produced within tolerance. We can guarantee 0,05mm +/- on both 2,85mm and 1,75mm colorFabb 3d printing filament, which means you can rest assured that your printer is extruding the exact amount of material.
Within minutes of production a spool of colorFabb 3d printing filament is sealed airtight with a double barrier foil. To go the extra mile, we’ll also seal the fancy cardboard box that we use to ship our product. You can make sure colorFabb 3d printing filament is fresh and ready for 3d printing when you’re done unboxing.
The colorFabb testlab features a wide range of popular 3d printers. We’re continuously testing on our 3d printers to keep checking the quality of the materials we produce and to develop exciting new materials for the maker community. If your not sure how to print with our materials on your 3d printer, please contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org
The following printers are used in our lab:
- Ultimaker Original
- Ultimaker Original Dual Extrusion
- Ultimaker 2
- Makerbot Replicator 2s
- Delta Tower (E3D hot-end)
- Felix 20
- Leapfrog Creator
- Mass Portal Pharaoh ED
- Prusa i3 HEPHESTOS
Companies who are interested in having their 3d printer(s) featured in our testlab can contact us at email@example.com
ColorFabb was founded as a brand of Helian Polymers, a sister company of Peter Holland which have been active in the master batch and additives for the plastics processing industry. Our knowhow, network and partnerships is driving material innovations and quality. You can expect colorFabb to keep on developing interesting new materials, which will be tested on a variety of printers to make sure it’ll get the job done.
Adviced 3d printing temperature:
Adviced 3d print speed:
40 - 100 mm/s
Advised Heated bed (if you have one, not strictly necessary)
TIP! Depending on your set-up, 3d printer and slice software, you might see that bronzeFill needs a bit more flow compared to your normal PLA settings. Most plastics will show die swell when coming out of the nozzle tip, this is counteracted with specific slicer settings. Since bronzeFill doesn’t show a die swell such as PLA you might need to increase flow rate a bit, 4-8% was perfect for our UM2. UM original did not need any adjustments.
TIP! Sanding and polishing your parts will make the bronze particles shine. Start sanding with grit 120-180 and make sure all the printed lines vanish. You’ll notice that because bronzeFill is easy to sand down, careful you won’t loose too much detail. Then start working your way up by following with grit 240-320 and finishing off with grit 600 - or higher. Finally we used a clean soft cloth and some copper polish to really get all of the shine out of the bronze particles.
Our PLA/PHA compound performs well on both heated and non-heated build platforms. For those users printing on a cold build platform we advise applying masking tape to the build area. The rough surface of the tape will provide enough adhesion for the first layer to stick and print almost without any warping.
Users using heated build platforms have quite a few options these days. The usual suspects are glass and aluminum build plates. For directly printing on glass or aluminum we advice user to apply glue-stick. A very thin layer will be sufficient to keep your print nicely in place. Another method is dissolving wood glue in water, you the consistency of the substance can be quite thin, a bit like milk. By applying just a few drops and smearing this out before you start heating the built plate will create a very thing layer which holds the woodFill down very well. If applying this method, be careful that you don’t get your electronics wet.
Another method that works well with colorFabb woodFill is polyimide tape, or Kapton tape. This tape is available as a very narrow strip or very wide strips which allow you to cover the build plate in one go. When the tape is applied correctly it can last for months.
TIP! Take your time leveling the bed and adjusting the the gap between 3d printer nozzle and build plate. A perfect first layer will is very important, especially for 3d prints with a large bottom layer. Having the nozzle set to close to the build plate will cause a pressure build up and as a result back flow in most hot ends.
TIP! PLA/PHA has very minimal warping tendencies, however if your printing parts which take up the maximum of you buildspace you might see some warping. If it’s very important that your part is perfectly flat than we suggest to turn down the fan that is cooling your part. This allows the material to slowly get rid of heat without warping. After a few centimeters you can turn on the cooling if the part needs it.
For some materials we have a made learn.colorfabb.com article.
Since colorFabb develops and produces their own filaments we have a lot of knowhow about our materials. Here you’ll find all kinds of interesting material specifications that will help you decide which material is best for your project.
colorFabb bronzeFill - PLA/PHA + fine bronze powder
± 0.05 mm
Glass Transition Temperature